Getting Even: Our Hyper-pigmentation Tips

Hyperpigmentation is often the result of trauma to the skin: Breakouts, bug bites, picking at your skin, UV sun damage and even excess hormones can initiate an inflammatory response that stimulates pigmentation. Although hyper-pigmentation can be quite stubborn, the right routine for your skin can bring transformation and clearing of this common condition.

Step One

First things first, to see success, you need to determine the cause of your hyperpigmentation. Hormonal hyper-pigmentation will need more aggressive support internally (we recommend DIM and Helioplex for hormonal pigment) and topically versus post-traumatic hyper-pigmentation often caused by acne or picking.

Start by taking stock of your current regimen and habits to make sure you’re not doing anything that aggravates pigmentation: For example, If you have a picking habit, you will need to stop. If you are not wearing SPF daily, you will need to begin using it. You will also want to take note if you feel your pigmentation is hormonal, more sun-induced or the cause of an injury to the skin such as acne or a picking habit.

Sun Protection & Prevention is a Must

SPF - Since UV exposure both stimulates new melanin production and deepens existing pigment, protecting your skin from the sun is the easiest way to guard against hyperpigmentation. Make sure you’re protecting your skin daily with a Physical Zinc-based mineral SPF even during the winter months. Tizo SPF40 tinted SPF that can be used under makeup or on its own for daily defense against damaging UV. Another option is Tizo Matte Tinted Prime & protect SPF, a client favorite.

Pair your SPF with a Vitamin C & E Serum for better efficacy - Powerful on its own as a super antioxidant and brightner, vitamin C is strengthened when paired with vitamin E. Studies show that together, these antioxidant superstars deliver four times the antioxidant protection of either alone. Plus, vitamin C is a natural brightener and collagen stimulator. We love Vivant Vitamin C&E Serum.

Control Inflammation

You won’t be able to clear and keep clear of hyper-pigmentation unless your acne is under control. So first, you must clear your acne completely and then control it. We advise clients to clear with us through our Acne Program and towards the end of clearing we address the pigmentation.

Look for anti-inflammatory ingredients to calm irritation and head off a melanin response. Many anti-inflammatory ingredients do double duty as melanin-inhibitors, making them both preventive and reparative. Benzoyl Peroxide and Niacinimide are such ingredients.

Increase Cell Turnover

Say Hello to Mandelic Acid (AHA)! Mandelic acid is anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, cell-renewing, and a melanin-inhibitor, making it an excellent choice for reducing excess pigment. It’s especially good for dark or sensitive skin because it’s larger molecular structure gives it a slower absorption rate. That translates to minimal irritation and less chance of reactionary hyperpigmentation. Dr. Fulton pioneered the use of mandelic acid specifically for treating both acne and hyper-pigmentation.

Derived from almonds, mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) with micro-exfoliating properties that helps to loosen the bond between skin cells to lift and dissolve cells.

What makes mandelic acid so unique is its larger molecular structure that reduces irritation common with AHA’s and its ability to work deeper in the skin to inhibit melanin production offering so much more benefit many types of skin concerns: hyper-pigmentation, melasma, acne, and wrinkles.

In addition to its exfoliating properties, mandelic acid is a powerhouse workhorse for fungal conditions, acne and even rosacea due to its anti-inflammatory, anti-bacterial, anti-fungal properties. For wrinkles and loss of firmness, it accelerates cell renewal for smoother, firmer skin. We love Face Reality’s Mandelic 8% and 11% serums along with Vivant Mandelic 3% toner for normal skin.

Use a Physical Exfoliator

Pigment resides in the base of the top layer of skin, so the removal process requires increasing cell renewal to break down excess pigment. Physical exfoliation a couple of times a week will help speed the process of fading dark spots by removing dead skin cells and stimulating new cell growth. We love Face Reality’s Mandelic Scrub Cleanser in the shower or Sorella Apothcary’s Poppy Seed Mask.

Layer a Lipophilic Vitamin C while You Sleep

Drench you skin with a a high dose of 100% stable Vitamin C while you sleep. Lipophilic Vitamin C is the best form of Vitamin C to effectively penetrate deep into the dermis and work at the cellular level to reverse damage. Most Vitamin C is water-based and is more of an antioxidant than a corrective. To get vitamin C in the dermis and help correct pigmentation it must be lipophilic. We are obsessed with Truth Treatment Systems Transdermal C Balm.

Cool your skin after being in heat

Like the sun, heat can aggravated melanin. Post heat, cool your skin with a cooling gel mask like Face Reality’s Calming Mask or 100% Pure Green Tea or Collagen masks. Keep them in the fridge so they are chilly when you apply them. ;)

Get a Peel

Peels are not the strong angry peels of the 90’s. Instead peels offer a quick, impressive result to support daily corrective homecare. They help to slough off the top layers of skin and induce collagen and elastin production for brighter, more even, smoother skin. Peels can range from little to no peeling, moderate peeling a few days after the peel or a stronger peel. We offer customized peels depending on a clients needs and lifestyle - you can view our peels here: Peel Options & Appointments

Our Top Solutions for Even Skin:

  1. Mandelic Acid 8% or 11% Serum

  2. Vitamin C&E Serum (Formerly Spin Trap)

  3. Face Reality Mandelic Scrub Cleanser

  4. Tizo SPF40

  5. Truth Treatment Systems Transdermal C Balm

  6. 100% Pure Green Tea Bomb mask or Collagen Mask

With the right products and consistent use, our cleints often can see a difference in as little as four weeks that will continue to improve over time!

Karen E OReilly